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Crying in Restaurants

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Crying in Restaurants
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That night, we were going to some fancy wine pairing at the restaurant where Patrick cooked. I was wearing expensive heels that gave me blisters, and the dress I probably should have bought in a bigger size. I had failed to lose the ten pounds I’d promised myself in the dressing room, and now the dress — purchased to appear sophisticated and elegant — required more internal rigging than the Cirque du Soleil. It’s hard to feel sexy and confident and beautiful wearing control-top undergarments. It’s like trying to have an orgasm while holding your breath underwater.

Anyway, Patrick showed up and said nothing. I wish there were a better reason for how my mood curdled in that moment. I

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was standing there, in that stupid dress I bought but could not afford, that stupid dress only bought to impress him, and he said nothing.

No, he said, "You ready?" And then he stuffed a cigarette between his lips.

I tried to walk off in a huff, but the dress was so tight I almost fell down the stairs.

Six months earlier, I met Patrick at a party full of scruffy boys with torn vintage T-shirts and literary pretentions. Patrick wasn’t like that; he’d graduated, for one thing, and preferred high-end food and gourmet restaurants to academia. He wore clothes that sometimes required laundering. He shaved every day, and even used cologne. All of this was like a different planet to me, a college junior majoring in English and Keystone Light. Patrick had these fierce convictions about sushi grades and the way a steak should be cooked. Meanwhile, I ate Noodle Roni nearly every night. Not because I was broke; because I thought it was delicious.

I’d always thought of cooks like the guys you see in sitcoms — cranky, balding men flipping greasy eggs at a fry station. But Patrick made it seem dashing and romantic, chopping an onion with a Camel Filter dangling out of his mouth. I spent hours beside him in the kitchen, wrapping myself around his body as he made dinner for us, marveling at how his fingers flew, too fast to track. It was so blessedly anti-intellectual. Try this. Taste that. Sometimes we didn’t eat till midnight, and we’d stay up screwing till dawn, stumbling to the car the next morning at nine a.m., bleary-eyed and dizzy on two hours’ sleep.

What I loved about Patrick was his passion — for me, for sex, for food. But the problem with dating someone passionate is that they sometimes cool on you. In the kitchen, where he had always craved me beside him, I was suddenly in the way. "Can you scooch over, babe?" he’d ask. "I can’t reach the salt." He once woke me up whenever he came home at midnight, at two a.m., hand sliding down my bare hip in greeting. Now he plopped into bed and rolled over. He stayed out later and later, too, which made me insanely paranoid about the women at the restaurant. I felt certain he would come home, hang up his chefs whites, and tell me he had fallen in love with a tall, thin waitress who really understood a tasting menu.

I wanted nothing more than to change into pajamas and eat the world’s largest bean burrito.

All this made me needy in a bad way — needy for his attention, needy for his approval. A few days before the fancy wine pairing, we had been shopping in the mall for his mother when that stupid dress caught his eye. It wasn’t my taste, really, but it was his. And though I once made fun of that mall store, I was now the proud owner of a high-interest credit card and a dress I really should have bought in a bigger size.

Anyway, that’s where we were when he picked me up for the restaurant.

"Is something wrong?" he asked as we drove.

And what can you say to that? That I’m crushed you didn’t tell me I looked amazing in this outfit I probably don’t look amazing in? That I wish I had lost ten pounds? That I’m terrified you’re going to fall in love with a tall, thin waitress and leave me?

"Nothing’s wrong," I said, futzing with my eye makeup in the mirror, pretending I wasn’t about to cry.

The restaurant was one of those places with tasteful amber lighting and clean, minimalist design. It was lovely and airy and clean, but at that moment, I wanted nothing more than to change into pajamas and eat the world’s largest bean burrito.

I don’t know about you, but once I start crying it’s incredibly hard to reverse gears. Sometimes just the faintest suggestion of tears is like a promise made for later that night: This thing is going to happen eventually, whether you want it or not. I had no idea how I was going to make it through this dinner.

"We’ll start you off tonight, ma’am, with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc."

Well, that might help.

Patrick didn’t drink. Did I forget to mention that? Funny, because I thought about it all the time. He quit a year before I met him, swapping bourbon for endless cups of coffee and smokes. This was nice at first, because I had tired of being the party girl waking up hungover and blue on a Sunday, wondering who needed an apology. But it became a pain in the ass. He watched my wine glass. He counted empty beer cans. Drinking became something I did just to piss him off. And also because I like to drink too much, and always have.

     

  

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 PERSONAL ESSAYS

  

     

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"So what do you do?" asked a man seated beside me at the table. He was an investment banker or a lawyer or some other profession that made my eyes glaze.

"I’m in college. I’m an English major."

He nodded and said nothing more to me the entire night. Wait, that’s not true. He said, "Would you like some more wine?"

To which I responded, "Absolutely."

Patrick sat at the other end of the table from me, beside a thirtysomething businesswoman with a blonde bob and a sexy pinstripe pantsuit, the kind that gives you just a whiff of cleavage. I spent the next two hours obsessing about the two of them. Every time she threw her head back and laughed, I imagined their fabulous conversation. I imagined the heat between their hands. I imagined them fucking in the kitchen, the kitchen we had never had sex in because he was always busy there, always preoccupied. I was talking to people about the weather, about the lobster risotto, but all I could think about was Patrick and that woman. They were falling in love. No, they were former lovers. I don’t know what it was about that woman that set me off. Maybe it’s because she seemed so confident. Which was weird. Because she wasn’t even that hot.

By the time Patrick came over to check on me, I was soggy with wine. Let me tell you something about crying in restaurants: I did it a lot more as soon as I became legal to drink. Actually, this is true of me crying anywhere. If there is a Kleenex in one hand, too often there is a wine glass in the other.

"How’s your girlfriend?" I asked.

He rolled his eyes. "She’s a lesbian."

Oh. This possibility had not occurred to me.

"You’re lit," he said, kissing me on the forehead. "Slow down."

I slugged back my pinot noir. "It just seems like you’d rather be here with her."

"Honestly? Right now, I kind of would."

I hear the dinner was delicious. I really wouldn’t know. I spent the last two courses of

So many men panicked when I cried, stammering and fumbling like they were trying to put out a fire.

that meal sullen and misty-eyed, occasionally dabbing the corners of my eyes with a napkin. "My contacts keep bugging me," I’d mumble to no one in particular. Genius! Surely no one could have seen through that one. I must have looked miserable, and it’s funny, all I wanted was to be impressive.

Back in the car, I kicked my heels onto the floorboard, and let my head loll on the headrest. A tear slipped down my cheek.

Patrick lit two cigarettes and handed one to me. "Are you leaking again?"

This is how Patrick referred to my crying. Six months ago, I’d found this endearing. So many men panicked when I cried in front of them, stammering and fumbling like they were trying to put out a fire. I liked that Patrick made a little joke about it, that he stayed so calm. Though, like so much that is initially endearing, it became the most annoying thing in the world.

"Yes, I’m fucking leaking. Okay?"

He broke up with me a week later. Believe it or not, it was a surprise.

What I remember best about my early twenties is trying to be someone I wasn’t. Pretending to know some book I’d never read. Pretending to be into music I really never liked. With Patrick, I was always pretending to be more sophisticated than I was, more cosmopolitan, someone who didn’t like Noodle Roni and cheap beer. (Though eventually, I really did stop liking both, which kind of makes me sad now.) I was always trying so hard and needing so much, and I wonder now what I would have lost — actually, I wonder what I might have gained — if I had just done something as simple as tell the truth.

That night, we went to bed in our pajamas.

"What’s wrong?" he asked.

"Nothing’s wrong." I brought his fingers to my lips and kissed them. But if they had stayed there any longer, they would have felt another drip. 


  

     

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Sarah Hepola has been a high-school teacher, a playwright, a film critic, a music editor and a travel columnist. Her work has appeared in the New York Times, Slate, The Guardian, Salon, and on NPR. She lives in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.
©2007 Sarah Hepola and hooksexup.com